A Rugged Weekend Away…
How I Spent Three Days in Northumberland.
3-Day Itinerary Details Below
Day 1: Spend the Day in Alnmouth
Day 2: Spend the Day in Alnwick
Day 3: Spend the Day at Cragside
There is a stretch of coastline I’ve always been curious about whenever I’m en-route to Edinburgh. On the LNER, right before the train pulls into Alnmouth station, the railside brush clears away and then you see it- a seaside town placed at the mouth of the river Aln that seemingly only reveals itself when the tide is low.I’m being dramatic on that last bit, this is no mystical lost city. 
Originally, the bank holiday would only consist of a day trip to Alnwick. But as I researched more and more, there were quite a few things I had wanted to see in the general area. I highly recommend renting a car so you don't miss out on some incredible scenery, but you can get around by public transportation as well. I do not have a car currently and I was able to navigate pretty well around the area, despite the bank holiday bus schedule. 
If you are in fact traveling by train, the best station to begin this adventure is at Alnmouth. Here is where you get off and take the bus to Alnwick. The train conductor looked at me and my ticket then asked me, puzzled, if I was sure that this was my stop. Not many people get off at Alnmouth, it’s true. I told him that I wasn't, in fact, going to Edinburgh!>> At this point I’d like to inform the reader that Alnmouth is pronounced like “All-n-muth” while Alnwick is pronounced like “Anne-ick.” English, eh? 
Three days in Northumberland covered the highlights, but I could have easily spent a fourth day exploring. On this trip, I could not fit in a trip to Bamburgh Castle, nor an excursion off to the Farne Islands (which involves a little more planning, especially for puffin season). 
Where I Stayed in Alnwick
As I was somewhat limited to how I could travel around, I chose to stay more town-centric. I found a place to stay by quite literally combing through Google Maps till I found something budget-friendly and cozy. I settled on the Market Tavern Steakhouse and Lodge, just off Market Street. Can you believe it? A Tavern! In any small town or village (and as per standard tradition in the UK really), you will find that a lot of pubs also function as a lodge. The staff at the bar were also the ones who checked me in and it was the first time I’ve stayed somewhere where I actually hung around eating and chatting. This kind of setup is your best bet if you want something a little more casual and not too isolating. 
Alternative recommendations
- Greycroft B&B- Tate House Alnwick - Black Swan AlnwickPlaces to Eat in Alnwick
Adam and EveThe Market TavernThe Dirty BottlesHarry’s BarLilburns Bar
Day 1: Spend the Day in Alnmouth
Walk along Alnmouth Beach
Hike to Church Hill
Find Alnmouth Telephone Box and Library
Have a break at the Sun Inn
Head back to Alnwick
Dinner at Adam & Eve
The main road of Alnmouth, Northumberland Street, is a short walk away from the bus stop at the top of the roundabout. This small coastal retreat is drenched in charm and I passed by the cutest little shops on my way down to the shore.
The tide was coming in and it was cold, so I didn’t linger too long on the beach. I enjoyed myself regardless, the views were so serene and peaceful. As a storm cloud came in, I hauled myself over to the Sun Inn and “fell” into a glass of rosé. Considering the fact that I had to rely on the bus schedule this time, I did not make it to Church Hill and see the famous view of the town from above. It’s alright, it just gives me an excuse to go back. 
Day 2: A Whole Day of Activities in Alnwick
Breakfast at Melvyn’s Cafe
Peruse Barter Books
Head to Alnwick Castle
Lunch at The Dirty Bottles
Explore Alnwick Gardens
Dinner at Lilburns Bar Restaurant
This day was jam packed with activities.
Barter Books
One of the places I was most eager to see was Barter Books, one of the largest secondhand bookstores in England. Visiting this bookstore is almost like a pilgrimage if you’re spending time in Northumberland. I was personally obsessed with the model trains that hover above everything and couldn’t get enough. You will catch a glimpse of the trains passing by from most areas in the building.And if I understand correctly, the first “Keep Calm and Carry On” World War Two era poster was found by the owner at an auction in 2000 and placed behind the tills.I didn’t buy anything as I didn’t have room in my little duffle bag, but I’ll make sure to bring a larger one next time!
Alnwick Castle
You might think it looks familiar as it was used as a filming location for the first two Harry Potter films- you know, the parts where they were learning to fly?! They have broom flying classes on the grounds that you or your kids can sign up for. 
It has been the seat of the Percy family, the current Dukes of Northumberland, for over 700 years. The castle has been at the forefront of so much English history, especially due to being so close to the Scottish border.The interiors were certainly sumptuous, but I could not take photos as it was still “very much a family home." It's always amazing when I'm told this. Just picture it: a 16th century artefact behind a photo of someone holding up a fish! It was exactly like this. The juxtaposition is extremely amusing.Can you imagine living in a castle?
Alnwick Garden
Conveniently just down from the castle walk is Alnwick Garden. Because I had spent around 3-4 hours at Alnwick Castle, I still had time left in the day to peruse the gardens. I should preface this by stating that, when I went, it was still very early in the Spring season and some things were not in bloom yet. However, I can imagine it to be spectacular from April/May onward. 
These formal gardens, designed by Capability Brown, are adjacent to the castle and are part of the dukes of Northumberland’s estates. It was revitalized in the early 2000s by the Duchess of Northumberland.
There are a couple areas of note within the garden, particularly the cherry orchard and the poison garden. 
For the cherry orchard, they typically all bloom at once around the end of April/beginning of May. It is a true orchard, with 329 Taihaku Cherry Trees laid out on the grounds with swing sets interspersed among them. Whilst I didn’t see them in bloom, I can imagine it’s truly a sight to see. 
Day 3: A Day at Cragside
Breakfast at The Northern Angels
Taxi to Cragside
Lunch at Cragside
Get the bus directly outside the property back to Newcastle (a very scenic route)
Cragside had been on my list for some time, ever since a colleague recommended I go.This Victorian Tudor Revival nestled into the heart of the Northumberland Forest was the home of William Armstrong, an avid inventor.
It is said to be the UK’s first smart home, showcasing electricity, dumbwaiter systems, and laundry all powered by the hydroelectric pump on the forest floor.
This modern day Neuschwanstein Castle has extensive hiking and driving grounds where, at every corner of the property, you will encounter the most gorgeous scenery.
Funnily enough, while this property is now part of the National Trust (free for members), the Armstrong family own and live in Bamburgh Castle, another must-see in Northumberland around 45 minutes away. 
Heading Back to Newcastle
From the entry of the property grounds, there is a bus stop that can take you directly back to Newcastle. This was such a scenic route as I really had no other way of getting back to a major city. Unfortunately, I was held up a bit by a different kind of traffic jam: These are the best things to do in Northumberland, in my opinion. This part of the UK has a certain magic to it and I can’t wait to experience more.
Other Places Worth Visiting Nearby
AmbleBamburghWarkworth BeachWarkworth CastleEnglish Coastal Path