72 Hours in Helsinki
I don’t know what came over me, but I found myself itching to take a spontaneous trip somewhere, anywhere, other than here.
Don’t get me wrong, I love London with a passion, I had dreams of living here for over a decade. But sometimes,.. you just want to get the heck out of here!
February is a time many choose to flock to warmer waters, but I wanted to go somewhere random.. Somewhere that was the coldest place I could find within reach- kind of like how people participate in those polar bear plunges, or jump into freezing water for just a moment.
Imagine my surprise when I was explaining to a friend this most spontaneous itch, that I wanted to go “somewhere random, somewhere like Helsinki” when she turned to me and explained that she was going there in a couple weeks!
Sometimes things just align, don’t they?
I left on a Thursday night with Norwegian Air from Gatwick Airport and I must admit: I missed that airline so much.
Get this- before I moved to London, I was living in New York. At the time, Norwegian had fairly cheap transatlantic flights, so I would literally hop on a plane for a weekend trip across the pond.
How insane is that! Oh, to be young(er) with boundless energy.
Day 1: A Nordic Welcome
Places to eat: Ihana Kahvila Baari, Vanha Kauppahalli
Attractions to visit: Senate Square, Vanha Kauppahalli, Helsinki Central Library Oodi
Stay: Hilton Helsinki Strand
Initially, I stayed at the Yard Hostel just for one night. I’m a bit self conscious to stay at hostels at my stage in life, but I try to save costs where I can. I’m not made of money! And I’m not in finance or consulting, so my money really has to stretch. Who wouldn’t look out for such deals if they’re able to?
After I had a bit of a lie in, I started my day around 11AM.
The temptation to grab a large coffee from Starbucks was so great, but I fought the urge and ended up at the cutest cafe called Ihana Kahvila Baari, near Esplanadi.
It had such a cozy vibe, with eclectic decorations and two very large couches taking up front and center near the windows. This was a perfect place for me to people watch as I sat with my cappuccino and pastry in front of their giant storefront windows. I could see how it would be such a lovely setting to catch up with friends.
Honestly, I was not expecting such an explosion of flavor for my breakfast, I thought Finnish food would be so bland!
I was completely wrong.
Energy levels now up, I headed out to take photos for the rest of the day. I became so obsessed with the trams, I amassed dozens of photos of them winding through the cityscape. I enjoy taking public transportation, especially when I can be above ground any chance I get.
In the afternoon, I found myself at Senaatintori, or Senate Square, observing the Alexander II statue before heading up the steps towards Helsinki Cathedral (Helsingin tuomiokirkko).
Helsinki Cathedral is the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran cathedral of the Diocese of Helsinki, according to Wikipedia. This city center landmark is a must see tourist attraction when visiting the nation’s capitol.
The view overlooking the square was amazing, with the harbor in the background and again the trams passing through in the foreground.
Now, I must confess- I spent time inside warming myself and placing heating pads in my shoes and gloves.
I rallied, braced myself for the cold, and made my way down to the harbor.
I think I could only manage about 20 more minutes outside before the cold got to me again! We did indeed pick the coldest weekend to visit. Winter in Finland is not for the weak!
Down by the harbor, you’ll find Vanha Kauppahalli, Helsinki’s oldest market hall dating from 1889.
This is an indoor fresh food market with local vendors selling fresh fish, cheese, Finnish delicacies, gifts, even fur! Sure, it may be more geared towards tourists, but it was not overly crowded at the time of day I went.
I wandered down the stalls seeing what they had to offer and settled on a vendor called Kumpi Peruna. They sell baked potatoes where you get to choose your toppings. I asked the owner what she typically has with hers and she recommended the salmon and one other topping, so I also added chickpeas.
Again, another dish so flavorful, it was really unexpected! I washed it all down with a hot cinnamon drink reminiscent of mulled wine, but without the alcohol.
This was just enough to set me comfortably on my journey again.
I had a few hours to kill before my group arrived, so I went to Helsinki Central Library Oodi to see what photos I could take before the sun completely set.
I was floored.
I cannot fully describe how awestruck I was by this library.
This public library, situated in the Kluuvi district, is a modern architectural feat completed in 2018 by ALA Architects. Despite the name, it’s actually not the city’s main library, which is Helsinki City Library, located in Pasila.
There are public gathering spaces on the ground floor, places to eat and drink, play chess, or just inquire after general information. I believe there are some meeting/enrichment areas on this floor as well.
The second level is a true jewel. They have all kinds of workshops, printing stations, areas to rent instruments and record, studios, and study spaces. The second floor truly made me realize how amazing it can be when a city invests in their citizens in this way.
The third and top level is for the books. This light and airy space has multiple seating areas, nap pods, a café, and spaces for children to play.
I just couldn’t believe it. This was the best public library I had ever been to and I wish similar services could be offered to people everywhere.
The time came for me to depart and head to my next hotel to meet my group. I grabbed my things from the hostel and made my way north to Hilton Helsinki Strand via tram. Then I popped into Story, a chain restaurant nearby, and had a lovely veggie burger with my ultimate favorite drink, a pornstar martini.
Altogether, a most interesting day filled with delightful discoveries.
Day 2: A Day Trip to Tallinn
Places to eat: OA Coffee, Põhjala Brewery & Tap Room, Gelato Ladies, RØST Bakery
Attractions to visit: Raekoja plats, Kohtuotsa vaateplats, Põhjala Brewery & Tap Room
Transportation: Ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn, Bolt to get around town
Day 2 of our adventure had a couple of us waking up super early to catch the ferry to Tallinn. We booked through Tallink and opted for the 7AM and the 4PM journeys.
I’m not exaggerating, this was the nicest ferry I’ve ever been on.
It seems to have been especially accommodating for those who frequent this path. We were greeted with a buffet, comfortable lounge seating, and game/sports areas. Of course, there are cabins, but as we were just going for a short journey of 2 hours, it was unnecessary to book those.
After disembarking from the ferry, we started the approx. 15 min. walk to Raekoja Plats (the old town centre).
I didn’t realize this, but Tallinn is a summer town. I was wondering where all the people were!
Even though it is a mainstay on the Christmas Market scene, the locals said it is more known as a summer destination for the surrounding area. As I’m writing this and recalling location names, I’m seeing a vibrant public piazza with umbrellas and tables with a market in the center on Google Maps, so perhaps keep Tallinn on your list for when it’s warm.
We sought to warm up (and wake up!) from our walk at this cafe called OA Coffee. This super casual coffee spot made me feel at home and relaxed and should definitely be on your list if you visit.
Then, the most amazing thing started to happen- it started to snow! I had been wondering if I was going to see the two cities covered in a blanket of snow as it was so absolutely freezing.
But alas, they had heavy coverage the week prior, so we just missed it. Still, it was nice to see as it just touched the picturesque streets ever so lightly.
The rest of the day was spent wandering about, looking through all the specialty stores selling items from local artists. We meandered up to Kohtuotsa Vaateplats, before heading back down to catch a Bolt towards Põhjala Brewery & Tap Room in the Kalamaja area.
The Kohtuotsa Vaateplats, watch my video on Day 2 here!
Põhjala Brewery & Tap Room serves 24 Pohjala and guest beers paired with Texas BBQ.. Texas BBQ! Imagine my surprise of finding a menu based on Texas BBQ in Estonia of all places.
They smoke their BBQ on the spot and majority of sauces, snacks, bacon and sausages are house made.
The hours were counting down till we had to go back to the port, but there were still a couple final stops! We popped into Gelato Ladies to cleanse our palettes and then stepped into RØST Bakery to see if they had a particular pastry one of us was hoping to try.
Finally, we headed back to the ferry and were treated to a most amazing sun setting over the Baltic Sea.
Day 3: A Final Finnish Farewell
Places to eat: Espresso House, Fazer Café Kluuvikatu, Tommyknocker Craft Beer Bar, Ravintola Natura
Attractions to visit: Helsinki City Museum
The final day had us splitting up once again, doing our own thing till dinner. In the morning, I actually spent some time finding medicine for my friend, who had gotten a little stomach sick earlier.
No pharmacies were open till noon, so I had to improvise and gather what I could find at a supermarket near the hotel. Once I dropped the medicine off, I was off once again.
This time, I wanted to see where the frozen river led.
Just past the Pitkäsilta bridge, the river widened into a small lake. I was out taking photos of the frozen buoys when a man caught my eye as I saw him running across the frozen water. He had been ice fishing!
A little way down, a group of people gathered to go ice skating. I realized I’d never seen these activities in real life,.. and I also realized I had actually never walked on frozen water before.
There’s a first time for everything.
So I sat on the boardwalk and slowly lowered myself onto the frozen water. What I underestimated is how scared I would feel walking across it. I am from Florida! I am not someone who has ever experienced these kinds of things.
I grew an intense fear of it caving in under my feet, so I just walked a little (it was slippery) and marveled at my current state before I screamed away with glee back to the boardwalk.
I was on my way back to the city center intending to take some last minute photos whilst a couple others did a walking tour (so cold!) and a visit to the Helsinki City Museum, which was highly recommended later. I didn’t have time to do that, so I’ll save it for another time.
I waited in an Espresso House across from the train station before meeting up with a couple girls from my group at Fazer Cafe Kluuvikatu. This French-Russian cafe chain first opened in 1891 by the Confectioner Karl Fazer. Pastries, chocolates, and other specialty desserts line the store, which was packed for brunch.
I bought a heart-shaped cake, in the name of self love, and devoured it nearby at Joe & the Juice as there was no seating left in the cafe.
The girls hadn’t gone to Helsinki Central Library at that point, and I was absolutely willing to go again.
There were certain things on this visit I hadn’t noticed two days before, for example, they have robots that put away the books! We witnessed one finish up its work and head back down via elevator. Incredible.
In late afternoon, we popped into Tommyknocker for a cheeky little drink before our reservation at Ravintola Natura.
Again, another fine dining venue. For some reason, most food offerings were on the higher end of the budget, a fact I wasn’t prepared to consider for this trip. Sure, there were reasonable offerings, but majority of sit-down restaurants seemed to be quite fancy. I welcome corrections if I’m wrong!
Alas, it was time to go.
Some of us headed back to the hotel to gather our things before we headed to the airport on a late flight back to London.
In truth, I suppose I could’ve done more. I suppose I could’ve gone to Suomenlina or Merisatam Havshamnen, but the time was limited and it was so incredibly cold out. Outside activities just weren’t going to cut it in February.
But it’s alright. I’ll save Helsinki again for the summertime and their midnight sun.
I’ve tried to capture as much from this trip as possible, but sometimes you just have to see it on video!: